Sometimes you just gotta knit!

Here's one of the patterns that I used to teach sock knitting in my old yarn shop!

Magic Loop 2 at a time Toe Up Buddy Socks

Materials Needed:  50 grs of two different colors
US #1 circular needle (at least 32” but 40” is best)
1 - locking st. marker and 2 - round st markers

Gauge 8.25 st and 11 rows per inch

Casting On – Judy’s Magic Cast On

Set Up: Starting with Sock B, cast on using Judy’s Magic Cast On (Youtube video tutorial) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pmxRDZ-cwo cast on 16 sts onto each needle.  Drop the yarn for Sock B and slide the cast-on stitches further down the needle.  Pick up the yarn for Sock A and repeat the cast-on.

You’re ready to knit, rotate your work clock-wise so that both needle tips are pointed to the right.  At this point it might be wise to trim your tail to about 6” or you might accidentally knit with the wrong yarn.  Make sure you don’t cut your working yarn.

NOTE:  Side 1 = instep; Side 2 = sole

Round 1

Side 1 – Sock A
With needle tips pointing to the right (make sure the bumps aren’t facing you), lock the tail and the working yarn by twisting.  This will keep the first st from falling apart.  Pull the bottom needle out, so that the stitches on now on the cable. 
Knit the 1^st st of side 1, sock A onto the empty needle.  If the first st seems lose, pull gently on the tail to tighten it up.  Attach a locking or split ring st marker onto this first knit stitch to indicate the beginning of your rounds.  Knit to the end of side 1 sock A.  You are now ready to knit side 1 sock B.

Side 1 – Sock B
Drop yarn A and pick up yarn B.  Repeat the same steps from sock A. 

Side 2 – Sock B
Rotate your work clockwise so the working yarn for sock B is on the right and the sts on the cable are on the top.  Push the top needle to the left so that the sts move from the cable to the needle to knit.  Pull the bottom needle to the right so that the sts you just knit will lie along the bottom half of the cable.

For this round ONLY, you will need to knit through the back loops of the side 2 sts (this will untwist the cast-on sts)

Side 2 – Sock A
Drop yarn B and pick up yarn A.  Repeat Side 2 – Sock B, knitting through the back loop of these sts.

Rotate your work so that the tips point to the right and the stockinette side of the work is facing you.  Push the top needle to the left so that side 1 sts for both socks are ready to be knit.  Pull the bottom needle to the right so that the sts for side 2 are on the cable.  You should be back at the beginning indicated by the marker.

Round 2 Shaping the Toes – Increase

Side 1 – Sock A: K1, M1, knit to one st before the end of side 1 of sock A, M1, K1
Side 1 – Sock B: Switch from yarn A to yarn B.  K1, M1, knit to one st before the end of side 1 of sock B, M1, K1

Rotate your work and arrange needles as before to begin knitting the sole sts.

Side 2 – Sock B:  K1, M1, knit to one st before end of side 2 of sock B, M1, K1
Side 2 – Sock A:  Switch from yarn A to yarn B.  k1, M1, knit to one st before end of side 2 of sock A, M1, K1

Rotate work, arrange sts as done in previous rows.

 Round 3 –
All sts will be knit on each side of each sock without increasing.  Remember to change your yarn when switching from sock to sock. 

NOTE:  One complete round includes working following sections:  side 1 of A, side 1 of B, side 2 of B, side 2 of A (always in that order).  When you end each round, you will be back at the marker.

Next Rounds:  Repeat Round 2 and 3 (the increase round and the even round) until each sock has 64 sts (32 sts on each side of each sock).

Foot

All Rounds:
Knit all rounds (stockinette st) until socks measure approximately 4” less than desired foot length.    End your work having just finished side 2 of sock A.  You are now at your beginning of side 1 of sock A, ready to begin the gusset increases.

Increasing for the Gussets

Round 1 (increase)
Side 1 (Instep) Sock A and B:  Work in stockinette pattern as established.
Side 2 (Sole) Sock B and A: K1, M1, knit to last st of each sock, M1, K1

NOTE:  Increases are only made on Side 2 (the sole) of the socks.

Round 2 (even)
Knit all sts on both sides of each sock without any increases.

Next Rounds
Repeat rnds 1 and 2 of Gusset 14 more times.  Side 1 of both socks should still have 32 sts and Side 2 of both socks should now have 62 sts.

Turning the Heel - Fleegle

Place a marker at the center of the heel sts.  You should have 31 sts on each side of the marker.

NOTE:  You will only be working on Side 2 of Sock A and Sock B (when you turn, you will pull the needle on the bottom to purl into the sts on the top needle)

Row 1 (WS) Purl across all sts on Sock A and Sock B, turn and adjust needles so that you will be able to knit on the RS of Side 2
Row 2 (RS) Knit to 2 sts beyond the center marker, k2tog, k1, turn, pull the yarn tight. Turn.  You will only be working 1 sock at a time until you have the heel turned.
Row 3 Sl 1 purlwise, purl to 2 sts beyond the marker, p2tog (or SSP), k1, turn, pull the yarn tight.  Turn.
Row 4 Sl 1 purlwise, knit to 1 st before the gap, k2tog (knit the st before the gap and the st after the gap together), k1. Turn.
Row 5 Sl 1 purlwise, purl to 1 st before the gap, p2tog (purl the st before the gap and the st after the gap together), p1. Turn.
Next Rows:  Repeat these two rows until you have one stitch left on each side. Then, if you haven't already done so, please see this post to avoid gusset holes.

Repeat beginning at Row 2 until 2nd heel has been turned.

Note that you will have two more stitches on the heel/gusset needle than you started with (this means you should have 34 sts) do not turn your work to purl row 5.  You will now rearrange your needles to work on Side 1 (instep) sts.

Side 1 Sock A and B: (Instep) Knit across all sts
Side 2 Sock B: (Heel) K1, SSK, knit across Sock B, switch yarns
Side 2 Sock A: (Heel) K1, SSK, knit across Sock A

Top of Sock – Leg
Resume knitting in the round on both sides, both socks, making sure to switch your yarns as needed.
This is a generic, plain vanilla sock.  You will knit the leg the length you desire.  I usually knit my legs about 4 or 5”.

Cuff
This is where you will want to use a ribbed pattern.  It’s your choice.  You can do a 2x2 rib, 1x1, 3x1 whatever you prefer.  I usually do a 2x2 rib.

Bind off using Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind off.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53Mtbkyf5CQ